To win a bet, I opened a bottle of Vincent Carême Vouvray Spring 2007 with breakfast.

Fireside warmth in a white. Honey, walnuts, cooked apples. Dry. Incredible length; encouraging reminiscences. I would call it Autumn, not Spring. At this time of year it is easy to imagine the chilly vineyards looking over the Loire river, as it drinks its way along the valley.

A dry chenin blanc from Vouvray not so frequently seen, but definitely worth seeking out. Sixteen bottles remain. Knock on the front door quick.

£9.75 a bottle from Lea & Sandeman, though I suspect they have none left.