A flat fish, pan-fried in brown butter, with a squeeze of lemon, capers and shallots, cannot be bettered. Continue…
Recipes
Puff the magic pastry: intro to puff and rough puff
A discourse on puff pastry, learnings about baking powder, and Dan Lepard’s Sausage Rolls Continue…
Uncertain eating? Boiled tongue in a bun
I last saw tongue on a plate at a hotel by the seaside in 1987. Continue…
On vending machines & madeleines
There was something about a train timetable, memories and a cake. I recall slow progress, and frequent reference to the Collins Robert Dictionary. I wonder when it became impossible to mention a madeleine without also referring to Proust. Continue…
Chervil, perfect chervil
Chervil grown from seed (taken end July)
Chervil lies in pole position amongst my reasons for tending a garden. Grown from seed in May, it has rewarded me with symmetrical feathery leaves through ’til early September (my fault in over-picking, rather than any lack of enthusiasm on its behalf).
There are two main reasons for this. Firstly its subtly flavoured, beautifully symmetrical and delicately feathery leaves; and secondly – though not least – because it cannot be bought by anyone outside of the restaurant trade. [UPDATE: Abel & Cole now sell it, we love you A&C]
I use it to cook omelettes fines herbes, to decorate canapes, tossed in salads, and most importantly in the recipe below: Continue…